A Wine of Note: Les Frères Dutruy (Founex, La Côte, Vaud)

Aligoté, Expression de Terroir 2015, Les Frères Dutruy, La Côte, Vaud Aligoté, for the most part, is a wine that deserves the scant attention it receives. In its ancestral home, the vineyards of Burgundy, it’s usually relegated to the poorer sites not worthy of chardonnay or pinot noir. Such indignities, and anemic aligotés from elsewhere, […]

A Wine of Note: Domaine du Clos des Pins (Dardagny, Geneva)

Gamaret, Mandragore 2013, Domaine du Clos des Pins, Dardagny, Geneva I was introduced to this wine by the sommelier at Le Philanthrope, an excellent new restaurant near Plainpalais in Geneva, as a potential match for a course of raw milk cheeses. Two things militated against his suggestion: I prefer white wine with cheese and I’m not […]

Mondial du Chasselas: Les Palmarès 2017

Whatever you call it—the Super Bowl of chasselas, the World Cup of fendant or the NBA Finals of gutedel—make no mistake, this is the Grand Daddy of them all: the Mondial du Chasselas. Sporting analogies are particularly apropos in this, the year of the upset. Never one to flinch at competition, I answered the call […]

Some New Wine from Geneva’s “Monsieur Natural”: Paul-Henri Soler

It’s been awhile since I last visited with Paul-Henri Soler (see: Profile) so I recently caught up with him at his usual Saturday haunt, the Carouge Farmer’s Market in Geneva. Unlike a lot of wine on offer at such venues, Paul-Henri’s are really attention-grabbing and worth exploring. He’s very engaging and encourages impromptu tasting among […]

Four From La Cinquième Glorieuse: Martigny 2017

This annual event grew out of frustration and two canny wine lovers’ need for organization. Old friends and fellow amateurs, Nicolas Reuse and Christophe Roch, grew frustrated with the time they spent wandering the vineyards of Valais just to keep up with old contacts and new releases. Things became untenable—there were simply too many important visits […]

Mémoire des Vins Suisses: Bern 2017

It’s time once again to raid the cellars of generous MDVS members who, each year, invite wine media types, professionals and knowledgeable enthusiasts to taste through a mini-vertical of one of their signature wines. This year’s event was held at the Kursaal Event Center in the lovely capital city of Bern. Kursaal is an impressive meeting space that overlooks the […]

Desperately Seeking Chasselas: San Francisco, California (Part 3)

Lady Chasselas 2013, Mylène Bru, Vin de France This is the third in a series of adventures wherein the peripatetic author seeks out chasselas in unlikely foreign venues. As we all know Switzerland’s native white grape is not well represented outside of its home country but when it is found elsewhere duty and allegiance demand that I […]