2023: A Summer of Tasting—Episode One

Swiss Natural Wine Festival: Three Years Later

As a seasoned taster, you might think the biggest downer to afflict a natural wine event would be the opinions of a few chip-on-the-shoulder wine critics who write for magazines nobody reads anymore.

But you would be wrong.

The biggest downer, as I recently discovered, is a climate emergency heat wave that spares nothing in its reach, including Switzerland. I’m talking the kind of heat that absolutely brutalizes wine, especially the un-sulfited wines this annual tasting showcases.

Much to everyone’s credit, however, the wines stayed cool, which meant a large volume of ice was always on hand. And while the icy chill benefited the whites and some lighter reds, it dulled the more robust reds by dramatizing their structural elements at the expense of balance.

Overall, though, chilling (the laid back kind) and natural wine go together beautifully, even under the most dire circumstances.

Of course, it wouldn’t be me without a complaint or two. Aside from the sweaty crowd and the obstinate table-hogging of a few local rubes, there was one puzzling theme to emerge:

Why, a little voice asked, is there such devotion to whole-bunch fermentation among naturalistas?

I understand that it’s a somewhat political issue—de-stemming is a product of the industrial wine era, and all that—but are there not degrees of appropriateness. When properly done, whole-bunch fermentation does add freshness and complex fruitiness to a wine, but not when the grapes themselves lack flesh and ripeness. And even when there is sufficient ripeness it’s not always appropriate with every variety. Rookie mistakes like this demonstrate why natural wine is still a nascent niche movement within Swiss wine industry.

Absolutes are the enemy of intuition and sometimes a little intuition is needed.

All wines in Switzerland which carry the “Vin Nature” label must conform to the Association Suisse Vin Nature (ASVN) regulations, which, to my knowledge, are the most restrictive in the world. The promise of zero-zero is quite literally the standard.

Gamay “Nature”

I thought the Gamays showed best of all the categories. I guess that shouldn’t be surprising as Beaujolais is a hot bed of natural winemaking and Gamay does well with a little intra-cellular fermentation and a slight chill.

Among the winners was an unusual Gamay Chaudenay—an obscure teinturier—from the Domaine de la Mermière. I’ve written about this wine before, but the 2022 version of the “Chaud du Coin” (Soral, Geneva) is meatier and gamier than the peppered blackcurrants on display in the 2018 vintage.

Top honors, however, went to the 2022 Gamay “Le Grand Papa”, St-Saphorin (Lavaux, Vaud) from rising star Fabien Vallélian. Fabien, when not making wine on his own, co-manages the outstanding Domaine des Faverges with his father, Gérald, where biodynamics is already well established. The Le Grand Papa was compelling for its layered complexity and uncanny resemblance to a violet-infused Fleurie.

A notch below was the 2022 Gamay “Nature” (Côte de l’Orbe, Vaud) from the splendidly secluded Château d’Eclépens. This is a simple, delicious version of the grape from a near mystical locale that parlays sweet ripeness with finesse and present drinkability.

You go girls!!

A special shout-out goes to Catherine Cruchon-Griggs who is poised to take her family’s wines at Domaine Henri Cruchon to the next level. The three wines I tasted were from an emerging line of natural wines named Les Filles Vinifient (The Girls Make Wine—an homage to the all female next generation). They are outstanding. All are made from biodynamic grapes and packaged in re-used bottles as part of the Bottle Back Initiative—the first bottle re-cycling program of its kind in Switzerland.

Catherine’s Altesse “Nature” (La Côte, Vaud) is already a standard in the Swiss natural wine canon. To my mind, Altesse gives Geneva and Vaud a signature white variety, not named Chasselas, with the potential to rival Petite Arvine in stature. The honeyed minerality of the 2021 is typical of the grape, as is its mineral, slightly waxy core.

Her 2022 “Omnis Orange Nature” (Gewürztraminer) (La Côte, Vaud) walks the bitter-sweet divide with aplomb. There’s all the rose petal, lychee, and spice you could want, but in a pleasantly tea-like and chalky-textured form.

The 2022 “Nihilo Nature” (Pinot Noir/Gamay) (La Côte, Vaud) resurrects the traditional recipe for Salvagnin, an old Vaudois specialty, that since 2009 has morphed from a Pinot/Gamay blend into an indifferent mish-mash of unrelated grapes. In the spirit of other Pinot Noir/Gamay blends—Dôle in Valais and Passe-tout-grains in Burgundy— Salvagnin must re-earn its place in the pantheon of Vaud wines. This one ups the ante with intense forest floor aromatics and a raspberry seed grittiness. It’s ironic to me, at least in this case, that the next generation is the one to champion and reinvigorate traditional styles.

Here and There

From nearby Allaman comes the 2021 “Tout Nu” (Chasselas) (La Côte, Vaud) from Château Rochefort, a property owned by the city of Lausanne. The salty and minerally aspect of Chasselas is enhanced by a slight oxidative note and buttery texture.

The Icelandic transplant Hoss Hauksson was in attendance to pour his 2022 Kerner “Horn” (Aargau) made at his eponymous winery in Rüfenach—he also makes wine in Ticino. Kerner is gaining popularity in Swiss vineyards and Hauksson’s version is one of the best. This is a barrique-aged, skin-macerated Kerner with lovely peach aromatics and a gentle tannic structure. This is definitely a winery to watch.

Next up were two of the best Pinot Noirs of the afternoon. The 2022 Pinot Noir “Nature” (Valais) from Marie-Thérèse Chappaz was explosive with ripe berry aromas and a hint of undergrowth. This is an example of what proper whole-bunch fermentation adds to a wine.

The 2021 Pinot Noir “Nature” (Neuchâtel) from Domaine Saint-Sebaste was also notable for its dark fruit and fresh green aromas. It also had a bit of volatility that played well with the fruit. This is where so-called “faults” in a wine can work to its benefit.

Overall, I found the PIWI reds to suffer the most from the afternoon heat and subsequent forced chill. Most of them seemed out of whack. The 2022 “Wygarte” (Cabernet Jura/Pinot Noir) (Bern) from Le Murmure was an exception. This vineyard is located in a vinous no-mans-land northwest of the Swiss capital, Bern. It’s a seldom seen AOC—most wines from canton Bern come from the Bielersee AOC—but wines like this may lead to greater recognition. This was dark and earthy with ripe blackberry fruit, moist loam, and toasted pepper. I was impressed.

Switzerland’s Gang of Four

Back in 2019 I identified a group of young winemakers as Switzerland’s version of the Gang of Four. They are Christian Vessaz, Etienne Javet, Fabrice Simonet, and Anne-Claire Schott. As it turns out each was instrumental in the adoption of the ASVN regulations back in 2021. It’s no surprise, then, that each was solidly grounded in either organics or biodynamics at the time, and each was well along their natural wine journey.

Christian Vessaz of Cru de l’Hôpital in Vully is the most experienced of the four and perhaps the most radical. Even while working within the strict rules of the ASVN, he is looking to do more. In one parcel he works without the copper-based Bordeaux mixture, a fungicide approved for use in both organic and biodynamic farming. His goal is to work only with biodynamic teas and concoctions. I wonder if this is something he wanted to squeeze into the regulations at the time of their adoption. In any case, it’s a reflection of his commitment to natural wine’s promise and his desire to leave the land better than he found it.

His 2022 “Alloy” (Chasselas) (Vully) is a brilliant example of his modern take on pre-industrial winemaking. “Alloy” is an old synonym for Chasselas, but the freshness of this, accentuated by a bit of prickly CO₂, is decidedly modern. It has bright green apple fruit in the center with butter on the edges. Very digestible, as they say, with 10.2% ABV.

Like with “Alloy” above, his 2022 “Noiren” (Pinot Noir) (Vully) utilizes an old synonym for Pinot Noir. This one is full of dark fruit with a slightly cooling, almost mentholated aroma. Christian has made his mark with white varieties, but his reds are underrated.

Anne-Claire Schott from Twann is perhaps the spiritual center of the region’s natural wine movement. She has a special gift for collaboration and will often include art, drama, and poetry in her presentations as a member of Junge Schweiz—Neue Winzer. Her labels are usually commissioned from artist friends and her wines evoke the rhythm of her fanciful writing.

Her 2022 Pinot Gris “Orange” (Bielersee) is a baroque composition of aromas and flavors with soft, lilting notes mixed with deeply resonating ones. A combination of spring aromas mixed with fall flavors is another way to put it. However you describe it, it is compelling and one of Switzerland’s best orange wines.

Orange Wine Vully-Style

Savagnin>>mutation>>Savagnin Rose>>mutation>>Savagnin Rose Aromatique (Gewürztraminer)

Traminer is both a common synonym for Savagnin, and a local synonym for Gewürztraminer in the Vully AOC. The variety enjoys signature status there with its own charter. Interestingly, the charter, which requires a panel to taste for typicity, is silent on the production of orange wine. It is, therefore, a surprise that the protected term “Traminer” appears on the label when orange wine is anything but typical—at least as contemplated by the charter in 2013.

But all of that is nitpicking because the wines are excellent.

The 2022 Traminer “Orange Nature” (Vully) from Le Petit Château and Fabrice Simonet is the brawnier of the two with powerful dried citrus peel and Earl Grey tea aromatics. It’s bone-dry on the palate with significant tannic clout.

The 2022 Traminer! “Orange Nature” (Vully) from Javet & Javet and older brother Etienne is a fresher, more floral version with some mandarin oil and rose perfume. This is also bone-dry on the palate with a gentle tannic tug to finish.

To close, I ordinarily wouldn’t drink orange wines so well-chilled, but that was the order of the day and maybe a sign of things to come.