The Robert Parker/Wine Advocate brand couldn’t have timed it any better. First, stir up the usually dignified Swiss wine community with a rare review of 200 or so of its wines, then time publication of the results to coincide with February’s “Matter of Taste” event in Zürich. Voilà, sold out event. Never mind that Parker […]
A Wine of Note: Domaine du Centaure
Pinot Gris 2015, Domaine du Centaure, Dardagny, Geneva Every once in a while a pinot gris comes along that, at least for a moment, revives my flagging interest in this exasperating variety. Such is the epic dilution and diminution of this pinot mutant. In Italy where it’s known as pinot grigio it’s blandness is nearly writ into […]
Profile: La Maison du Moulin (Coinsins, La Côte, Vaud)
It’s three weeks into the new year and the weather is already historic—the coldest January in 30 years—and on this day it’s even colder with bone-numbing winds. Fortunately the family car is equipped with new snow tires, 4-wheel drive and GPS. All three are necessary with La Bise Noire in full fury and snow drifts obliterating […]
Opinion: Is It a Flower or a Root Day?
There isn’t much in wine-related social media to stir up the internet trolls as much as the subject of biodynamics. It’s as if the desire to improve soil health, the taste and quality of our food, and how we interact with the earth is somehow a red state, blue state thing. The latest Twitter kerfuffle […]
A Brief Chat About Natural Wine with Jérôme Aké Beda
Recently I spoke with one of Switzerland’s great wine professionals, Jérôme Aké Beda. Not only is he co-proprietor of the highly regarded Auberge de l’Onde in Saint-Saphorin, he is also its Maître d’Hôtel, sommelier and resident wine philosopher. He was named Gault & Millau’s Best Sommelier in Switzerland in 2015 and he is co-author, with […]
A Wine of Note: Winzerei Zur Metzg
I’m always in awe of a commentator with enough grace and confidence to fairly describe a wine even when it’s not to their taste. It’s tough to do but rewarding when it happens. This inherently generous act alerts others who may find excitement in the eccentricities and beauty in the perceived shortcomings I might find. […]
Heritage Grapes: A Return to Diversity
The 20th century trend toward monoculture and industrial farming has touched nearly all aspects of the agrarian economy including viticulture and the wine industry. Fortunately, the citations and figures below may represent a high water mark as the forces for agro-biodiversity gain momentum and start to chip away at these startling numbers. Out of around […]
Happy Holidays & A Very Happy 2017
I want to wish all my readers a very happy holiday season and a very successful new year. This past year has been full of challenges for the world but I believe the best path forward is through optimism and love for one another. Pursuing my passion and sharing it with others is my way […]
Swiss Grapes: Plant Robert — A Tasting at the Cully Bazar
Even though it’s back from the brink, the grape known as Plant Robert remains endangered and little known. Absent a timely intervention it would have been lost decades ago to urban sprawl — in 1966 the last parcel in existence was condemned to make way for the A9 autoroute. Today its eight hectares are spread […]
Profile: Cru de l’Hôpital (Môtier, Fribourg)
The angelic mien and soft-spoken pitch of Christian Vessaz, winemaker and director of Cru de l’Hôpital in the village of Môtier, does not fully assuage a gut feeling I have that beneath the reserve are two frantically paddling feet—a not inappropriate image in this lakes region of the Swiss plateau. It also happens to be […]
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