Fendant 2014, Valentina Andrei, Valais (chasselas) On a quick visit to one of my favorite wine stores, Le Passeur du Vin in Geneva, I came across this little bit of history modestly floor-stacked among the new arrivals: the first vintage from Valentina Andrei’s eponymous winery. A transplanted Romanian, Ms. Andrei is already a bit of […]
Category: Wine
Festival des Vieux Millésimes
This annual event and the accompanying Nuits des Vieux Millésimes were founded and organized by Alexandre Truffer, Swiss editor of the French language edition of Vinum Magazine, for the edification of Swiss wine enthusiasts and members of the general public. Its organization is simple: participating wineries choose up to ten wines that they believe best […]
A Wine of Note: Tom Litwan
Pinot Noir, “Chalofe” 2013, Thalheim (Tom Litwan), Aargau In a recent article wine writer and author Jon Bonné makes an obligatory end of year prediction designed to arouse controversy, to wit: Swabia will be Europe’s next great wine region. He notes the wines have already passed hipster muster in Brooklyn and San Francisco and are […]
Wine with Dinner: Randomly Chosen in February
Epesses, La Trinquette 2013, Pascal Fonjallaz, Lavaux-Vaud (chasselas): From a parcel located adjacent to the Grand Cru vineyards of Dézaley. Shimmery, mid-straw color. An aroma of gen-mai-cha, white flowers, pear and nuts is front and center. A medium-bodied palate follows with pear-like fruit, roasted notes and a firm mineral streak typical of chasselas. The texture […]
Profile: Paul-Henri Soler (Meyrin, Geneva)
Every once in a while I come across a winemaker whose character and art defy description. Ladies and gentlemen, I have recently met such a man, his name is Paul-Henri Soler. Mr. Soler came to my attention while I was researching the natural wine movement in Switzerland. He hails from the French side of the […]
Natural Wine Part 1: What is it?
My friend Ian is smitten with “natural” wine. He is convinced and happy to tell the world that he knows a better way to drink. “Imagine” he says “drinking a living, breathing wine made without chemical additions or artificial manipulations, that expresses its true sense of place, all the while knowing that the soil is […]
Wine with Dinner: Randomly Chosen in December
Pinot Blanc 2013, Domaine Dugerdil, Dardagny-Geneva (Pinot Blanc): Very pale straw colored. Nose is clean but reticent with small nods to cereal grain and muscat grapes (linalool?). Watery palate with clean but barely discernible fruit flavors. Clipped finish with almost no lingering flavor. Undistinguished. Perhaps a decent summer wine when one is bored. L’Enigme, St.-Saphorin […]
Profile: Domaine Denis Mercier (Sierre, Valais)
The train ride from Geneva to Sierre is a must do for every train lover and wine enthusiast. In an amazingly short two hours some of the world’s most jaw-dropping vistas are at hand. First up, the spectacular vineyards of the Canton Vaud and the UNESCO World Heritage Site vineyards of Lavaux. As a backdrop, […]
Wine with Dinner: Randomly Chosen in October
It’s the end of another month so here is a rundown of the bottles popped and enjoyed. I am beginning to recognize that Switzerland is a treasure trove of unique wines, places and people. There is passion and dedication here and we are beginning to see lots of experimentation to boot. There is a natural […]
Wine with Dinner: Randomly Chosen in September
Aligote, Lully 2014, Domaine des Curiades, Geneva: Pale, shimmery, white gold color. Brisk, fresh nose of stone and citrus. Lacks the body and sheer nerve of Bourgogne but also the sometimes unappetizing and overwhelming acidity. Along the lines of an Alto Adige pinot bianco. An interesting example of this variety from a well-thought-of property. Chardonnay, […]