Category: Tastings

A Wine of Note: Blaise Duboux

Plant Robez 2014, Epesses, Blaise Duboux, Lavaux, Vaud (Plant Robert) This relic from another century is actually a local mutation of gamay noir boasting a scant ten hectares extant in a smattering of Lavaux villages. Left for dead as recently as 1966, several prescient growers gathered to plot its resurrection and in 2002 launched the […]

A Wine of Note: Domaine Wannaz

Merlot, “Chante” 2012, Coteaux de Léman, Domaine Wannaz, VdP Suisse The poem/tasting note on the front label, roughly translated, reads: “A flash of sour cherries and the scent of vanilla are the perfumes inhaled from the peace pipe of the all powerful.” I’d like to say that about sums it up, but I can’t, because […]

A Wine of Note: Valentina Andrei

Fendant 2014, Valentina Andrei, Valais (chasselas) On a quick visit to one of my favorite wine stores, Le Passeur du Vin in Geneva, I came across this little bit of history modestly floor-stacked among the new arrivals: the first vintage from Valentina Andrei’s eponymous winery. A transplanted Romanian, Ms. Andrei is already a bit of […]

A Wine of Note: Tom Litwan

Pinot Noir, “Chalofe” 2013, Thalheim (Tom Litwan), Aargau In a recent article wine writer and author Jon Bonné makes an obligatory end of year prediction designed to arouse controversy, to wit: Swabia will be Europe’s next great wine region. He notes the wines have already passed hipster muster in Brooklyn and San Francisco and are […]

Wine with Dinner: Randomly Chosen in February

Epesses, La Trinquette 2013, Pascal Fonjallaz, Lavaux-Vaud (chasselas): From a parcel located adjacent to the Grand Cru vineyards of Dézaley. Shimmery, mid-straw color. An aroma of gen-mai-cha, white flowers, pear and nuts is front and center. A medium-bodied palate follows with pear-like fruit, roasted notes and a firm mineral streak typical of chasselas. The texture […]

Wine with Dinner: Randomly Chosen in December

Pinot Blanc 2013, Domaine Dugerdil, Dardagny-Geneva (Pinot Blanc): Very pale straw colored. Nose is clean but reticent with small nods to cereal grain and muscat grapes (linalool?). Watery palate with clean but barely discernible fruit flavors. Clipped finish with almost no lingering flavor. Undistinguished. Perhaps a decent summer wine when one is bored. L’Enigme, St.-Saphorin […]

Wine with Dinner: Randomly Chosen in October

It’s the end of another month so here is a rundown of the bottles popped and enjoyed. I am beginning to recognize that Switzerland is a treasure trove of unique wines, places and people. There is passion and dedication here and we are beginning to see lots of experimentation to boot. There is a natural […]

Wine with Dinner: Randomly Chosen in September

Aligote, Lully 2014, Domaine des Curiades, Geneva: Pale, shimmery, white gold color. Brisk, fresh nose of stone and citrus. Lacks the body and sheer nerve of Bourgogne but also the sometimes unappetizing and overwhelming acidity. Along the lines of an Alto Adige pinot bianco. An interesting example of this variety from a well-thought-of property. Chardonnay, […]