The End of Summer Approaches
Another month is in the books and new experiences are ready to share. The August round-up focuses on Geneva which I’m told I don’t pay enough attention to. I actually do have plans to profile a couple of Geneva producers so please stay tuned. Later this month my profiles of Weingut Donatsch and Hansruedi Adank in Graubünden will appear. I had a lot of fun tasting with them and learning about the Bündner Herrschaft region first hand. It really is quite special.
In no particular order, these are last month’s wines of note.
Scheurebe, “Les Éliades” 2015, Domaine du Centaure, Dardagny, Geneva: Gold color. Muscat-y nose of roses, fruit compote and spice. Palate is slightly flat and low acid but with a lot of spicy flavor. A touch of sweetness makes this a candidate for an interesting apero.
Aligoté 2015, Domaine des Curiades, Lully, Geneva: Straw color with greenish highlights. Vaguely tropical nose with broad fruit and a touch of button mushroom. Palate is low acid and a touch flabby. Not enough grip especially for this notoriously acid variety. A little bland.
Pinot Gris 2014, Domaine Dugerdil, Dardagny, Geneva: Pale silver with copper highlights. Nose is a bit neutral and lacking interest. A bit of honey and wet stone perhaps. More neutral Oregon than any other style. Palate is crisp and refreshing but again without a lot of flavor interest. Decent.
Chasselas, “Les Lavandes” 2015, Domaine Château L’Éveque, Jussy, Geneva: Pale straw colored. Very fresh and inviting nose of honey and almond nougat. Palate is vibrant with nice supporting acidity and etched flavors of wheat crisp, lemon and honey. A very respectable chasselas from this biodynamic property.
Sauvignon, Coteau de Lully 2014, Domaine des Curiades, Lully, Geneva: Very pale silver/green in color. Restrained sauvignon nose with grapefruit pith, fresh cut grass and herbs. Light-weight palate with flavors of grapefruit, lime, cloudberry and fresh herbs. Not especially assertive but not as innocuous as most Swiss sauvignon.
Johannisberg 2014, St. Jodern Kellerei, Visperterminen, Valais (sylvaner): Gold in color. Robust nose of dried fruit, baked pear and sweet spices. Perhaps a touch oxidative with a bit of a sherried edge. Palate is full-bodied, creamy/oily and slightly sweet. Lots of dried Christmas fruit and mealy pear. Interesting but I wouldn’t want a lot in the cellar. Low acid.
Païen, “Réserve” 2014, Histoire d’Enfer, Valais (savagnin): Straw color. Very minerally nose with mushroom and wheat biscuits. Reminds me a bit of flat blanc des blancs Champagne. There is nice fruit extract with mushroom, lemon, tilleul and white flowers. This is very nicely rendered and will make an interesting older bottle. Very good.
Fendant, Coteaux de Plamont 2015, Marie-Thérèse Chappaz, Fully, Valais (chasselas): Straw colored. Broad nose of melon and pear. Not the incisive chasselas nose in this hot vintage. Similar broad flavors that are fat and round. Only a touch of the minerality typically found here. Very slightly reductive. Overall, very nice but could use a bit of time to come together.
Gamay 2015, Domaine de la Vigne Blanche, Cologny, Geneva: Vibrant ruby color. Fresh, lively nose of red fruit and herbs. Delicious, juicy raspberry fruit and crisp acids on the palate. This is simple but perfectly rendered and very satisfying.
Garanoir/Gamaret, “Légende” 2015, Domaine du Centaure, Dardagny, Geneva: Hazy garnet in color with a touch of browning. Meaty nose of pepper, plum and miso. More savory than fruity. The palate shows roasted plum, celery salt and decent acids. I actually liked this quite a bit.